HISTORY OF MURANO GLASS IN VENICE

bottiglie-thumb1.jpg                                                         Glassmaking in Murano comes from a common thread in Venetian history - the status of the settlement as a bridge between west and east. Glassmaking was an art that had reached a height in the countries of the Middle East - particularly in Syria, Egypt and Palestine - and Venice, looking outwards to the sea as always, was fertile soil for the specialised skills of the trade.

As Venice’s trade grew with the Orient, typified by the journeys of Marco Polo and his uncles, so the skills from that area began to flow - along with the trade goods - along the return route.
This is not to say, however, that glass was an unknown quantity in Italy before this time. The Romans had used glass - cut from a moulded piece rather than blown - for illumination in bathhouses. And what was probably one of the first glass furnaces on a Venetian island - dating from the 8th century, so archaelogists think - was discovered in the 1960s. Not on Murano, however, but on its more important neighbour in those days, the island of Torcello.

The fact that glass-blowing was more an Eastern skill than a European one played in Venice’s favour as it, along with its bitter rival, Genoa, had the best connections to that area.
The Development of Murano

Many sources suggest that glassmaking was concentrated on the island of Murano because of the risk of fire from the furnaces on the more heavily populated areas of Rivo Alto and Dorsoduro. However, it is also highly likely that the industry was easier to control and influence when it was in one particular place.

As with the Arsenale, the Venetian authorities aimed to reward and guard a vital industry by keeping it comfortable within a “gilded cage”. Incentives and conditions for workers and employers were strictly regulated by the administrators of the government body controlling the glassmaking industry.
And for a long time workers who left the island were forbidden from ever working again within the industry on Murano - a measure taken to stop the outflow of secrets and skills from the island.
Whatever the reasons for the concentration of glassmakers within such a small area, the effect was a tremendous cross-fertilisation of ideas which led to the leading role of Venetian glass within Europe.
Ruling the Continent

The popularity of Venetian glass in the 15th and 16th centuries was fuelled by its expertise in producing clear glass - cristallo - or the white glass mimicking porcelain - lattimo. The practice of enamelling glass, which had originally spread from the Middle East, was also highly popular at the time. Venetain mirrors, too, were in great demand.

The evident prosperity of the glassmakers’ guild on Murano of course attracted attempts at competition elsewhere in Europe and Italy and Venice was forced to intensify its carrot and stick approach to the industry.

The ranks of master and assistant glassblower were opened up to allow non-residents an honorary citizenship of Murano - subject to the same rights and restrictions, of course - and, at the same time, steps were taken to close glass furnaces operating in other parts of the territory controlled by the Venetian Republic by force.

In the time of its greatest popularity, Murano was visited by crowned heads, popes and the leading businessmen of its time - all attracted by glass “à la façon de Venise”.
Seeds of Decline

As with the Republic itself, the seeds of an eventual decline were hidden within the apparent success. Knowledge attempts to be free and, despite best efforts of the guilds, the government and the feared secret services, enough seeped away from the island to allow rival enterprises to start.

Merchants who had experience of commerce with Murano set up their own factories in France, Belgium and Austria. The repeated bouts of plague necessitated frequent relaxations of the strict employment laws to attract a sufficient number of workers. And, eventually, a new technique arose to challenge the pre-eminence of Murano glass - leaded glass - which developed bases in the UK and Bohemia.
Times of Hardship

The 18th century saw the seeds of decay start to flourish, and the furnaces of Murano were hit with worker discontent as one after another was forced to close and unemployment grew.
The relative decline in the importance of Venice as a power on the political stage also meant that it was less effective in policing its extensive and restrictive rules.

Even an unexpected niche boom - led by a manufacturer of glass chandeliers - exemplified the decline. After centuries of seclusion the manufacturer was allowed to set up shop in Venice itself to keep his furnace and workers away from his jealous colleagues.

Occupation first by French and then Austrian troops put the finishing touches to the Serenissima - the Venetian Republic - and very nearly put paid to the glassmaking industry.
Modern Times

Glassmaking in Venice suffered under foreign rule and it was not until Venice was made part of Italy that the fortunes started to rise again. The Venice Biennale at the end of the 19th century showed that the spark of glass art was not dead and the early 20th century saw interest grow in using traditional techniques as part of a new movement.

The post World War II increase in visitors and interest in Venetian history has brought criticism that much of the “tourist glass” produced is a) not even made in Murano and b) unworthy of its pedigree. But, on the other hand, the current interest has also enabled the development of specialist lighting and jewellery producers - as well as the high end glass sculptors and artists.

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THE VENICE NAVAL MUSEUM

2627891982_25a6edb2eb1.jpgThe Venice Naval History Museum is located in the Campo San Biagio in the eastern Castello district, a short walk from the Arsenale vaporetto stop.

The main entrance to the museum is flanked by two enormous anchors seized from Austrian battleships during the First World War.

The first floor contains a collection of Second World War artillery pieces and torpedoes. It also houses an exhibition dedicated to the memory of the 18th century admiral, Angelo Erno, who won some minor naval engagements against Algiers and the Bey of Tunis, and who reorganised the Arsenale in a vain attempt to maintain Venetian naval power.

Admiral Erno, arguably Venice’s last military hero, died just five years before the city’s conquest by Napoleon in 1797.

The first floor of the museum also houses  a 16th century frieze by Fernando Bertelli which depicts Venice’s famous victory against the Ottoman Empire at the battle of Lepanto in 1572.
A large section of the second floor is dedicated  to another naval hero, Admiral Morosini, who drove the Turks out of the Pelopponese in the late 17th century. Despite his military achievements, Admiral Morosini is probably best known for his scandalous bombardment of the Parthenon during the siege of Athens in 1687.

The Morosini exhibition includes the admiral’s triangular silk banner and several sculptures and engravings which formerly adorned his flagship.

Admiral Morosini became Doge of Venice in 1688, but was unable to continue his invasion of Greece after a plague epidemic depleted his navy. Instead he sacked several Dalmatian coastal towns whose inhabitants had refused to pay Venetian taxes.

In addition to the Morosini exhibition, the second floor contains an exquisite collection of model ships which are correct in virtually every detail.

The collection includes military and merchant ships but the most impressive item is undoubtedly the model of the Bucintoro, the Doge’s ceremonial barge.

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FESTA DEL REDENTORE

Fireworks and St.Mark Square

The “famous night”

Tradition dictates that at sunset the well illuminated boats, decorated with boughs and coloured balloons, begin congregating in Saint Mark’s Basin and the Giudecca Canal.

In the boat, there are either carefully prepared or hastily put-together tables laden with traditional Venetian dishes for dinner.

Everyone eats, drinks, dances and jokes whilst waiting for the firework display, which begins at 11.30pm and lasts until after midnight.

Then the boats slowly set off for home or for the Lido, to wait for sunrise.

Opening of the votive bridge

The votive bridge

To permit direct access to the Redentore a temporary bridge of boats (330 metres long) crosses the Giudecca Canal.

On Saturday and Sunday thousands of people cross the bridge to visit the church and, on Saturday evening, to see the firework display from the brightly lit banks of the Giudecca.

Traditionally, the inhabitants have dinner at long tables on the banks of the Giudecca Canal. 

Fireworks

Boats and illuminations

Whilst thousands of tourists watch the firework display from the banks of the Giudecca and along Saint Mark’s Basin, Venetians traditionally watch it from their specially decorated boats which are illuminated with coloured paper lanterns.

The surface of the water is literally teeming with thousands of lights and boats. 

 

Venice patriarch

The religious ritual

The official religious festivities are concentrated over Saturday and Sunday.
On Saturday at 10am, the cycle of religious activities begins with the “Holy Mass of the Cathedral Chapter and the nine Congregations of the clergy” which continues in the afternoon and has two vital moments at 7.30pm (after the official opening of the bridge) and at 0.30am (after the firework display).

Another 8 masses are held on the Sunday, including the solemn votive Mass presided over by the Patriarch and civic dignitaries; this ends in the procession with the Holy Sacrament and the blessing of the city.
 

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